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◈ 윤치호일기 (1896년) ◈
◇ 7월 ◇
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1. 7월 1일

2
1st.(21st of 5th Moon). Wednesday. Very hot.
 
3
French lesson as usual. After lunch, went out shopping Paid 12 R, for a combination knife. A fool that I am!
 
 

2. 7월 2일

5
2nd. Thursday. Very hot.
 
6
Between 2 and 4 p.m. with Mr. M and two Kims called on the Ministers of Education and of Law Communication.
7
At 4:30 went to the residence of Mr. Maack, a brother of Mrs. Waeber. His wife is the sister of Miss Sontag of the Russian Legation at Seoul. Had a very substantial dinner.
 
 

3. 7월 3일

9
3rd. Friday. Rained and cool.
 
10
Rained all the a.m. At 11:30 a.m. Mr. M, two Kims and myself went to the Cafe de Paris to entertain Mr. and Mrs. Maack and Mr. Ivolansky, the brother of Mrs. Ioyer and others. The lunch was decently served.
11
From the Cafe at 3 p.m., went to see the prisons. One of them keeps those awaiting judgment, while the other is a kind of penitentiary.
12
They at present contain 508 prisoners, of whom 147 being political offenders. Those of lighter offences are allowed to stay in a common room. The accused of higher crimes are kept one in a cell. There is a bed, washstand, a table, a cupboard, a cup, a copy of the Bible. The cells, numbering 285, are as clean and free from odor as any I have seen. The whole establishment is kept in the most scrupulous condition of cleanliness and order. So is the penitentiary in which are kept those whose term of penalty does not exceed 12 or 14 months. Those who have to serve anywhere under 10 years are confined in the Central Prison. The condemned who are sent to the island of Saghalien are those whose term exceeds 10 years.
13
In the penitentiary there are three very neat chapels, one Greek, another Roman, and the 3rd, Protestant. Bath rooms, a library and a hospital show that the unfortunates are cared for mentally and physically as well as spiritually. Was told that it takes something like 300,000 R. to run the establishment. A large portion of the sum comes from the sale of articles made by the prisoners.
14
The two main buildings of the penitentiary are of the form of a cross. A guard standing in the middle can command the entire building. Here and there little parks and walks are provided.
15
The excellent condition of these establishments speaks most favorably of the civilization of the Czar's government.
16
After dinner, took a long walk with Stein. The sidewalks of the great Nevsky Prospect were crowded with people.
 
 

4. 7월 4일

18
4th. Saturday. Cool.
 
19
This a.m. at 9:30, Mr. Posdnyff called on me. He is an officer in the chancellery. His brother is the Director of the Faculty of Mongolian Languages in the University.
20
Knowing that I am anxious to stay longer in Petersburg, proposed that I might teach Corean in the University at 1,000 R. per year, in the meantime availing myself of all the facilities of learning in the institution. I told him that (1) I would like to stay longer in Petersburg at my own expenses for a further study of French, that (2) I don't feel myself qualified or inclined to teach in a university, that (3) I can not separated from the embassy. Then he proposed that I might take a letter of invitation from the Minister of Education with me to Corea, so that I might return to Petersburg should I find circumstances favorable to doing so. I answered him that I could do so. "As I can not tell in what circumstances I may find myself in when I get to Seoul, I shall promise nothing here. I don't want to bind myself or anybody else to the subject. I leave the question as free as the air."
21
Told Mr. Min what proposition I had received and what answer I had given.
22
The whole town is flagged red, white, blue, to welcome the Czar from Moscow.
23
The p.m. Mr. Min purchased some agricultural implements to the value of Rs. 95,000. To the purchase of some 11 pieces of simple construction costing him 509 Rs, I could not object much. But when he ordered a flour mill of 4 horse power worth 450s, I could not help reminding Son Exellence of the uselessness of the article. He said that he would make flour for Corean "tenk"! He asked the agent for some chemicals or oils which may keep the machines bright from rust and damage. What an idiotic request. Nothing but constant and careful handling.
 
 

5. 7월 5일

25
5th. Sunday. Rainy.
 
26
Up late this p.m. 2. Mr. Min went to see Prince Lobanov.
27
The engagement for the interview was made the day before yesterday. As Mr. Min had not told me of it I know that he didn't intend to take me with him. Today, as expected, Kim To Il went with His Excellency.
28
Very good; Mr. Min has the full right to choose who should interpret for him, theoretically. But, in practice, it is certainly very impolitic, to say the least, to treat a man so capriciously. My religion and education forbid that I should even entertain the thought of retaliation. I am as ready now as ever to help of counsel Mr. Min to the best of my ability. Yet, the fact remains the same that half confidence is worse than no confidence.
29
The most charitable construction I may put on the action of Min is that the telegram which he says to have received a day or two ago told him to employ Kim T.I. for important negotiations according to the original instruction of His Majesty. Even in this case I should think that Min might have told me of it, as a matter of decency if not of friendship. Min reflects many of the characteristics of His Majesty.
 
30
Kim T.I.: "Next Sunday would be the next day after the 23rd of the Russian calendar."
31
Min: "What date of the month will that be?"
32
K.T.I.: "The 24th". A good example how a Corean yangban can think.
 
33
By the 3:20 p.m. train Min, 2 Kims and myself went to Czarsville intending to take Mrs. and Mr. Plancon to Pavlovsky. But the former being unwell, Plancon and his two boys went with us. Had a very nice dinner in the Restaurant Tartatic. Fine showers all the time.
 
 

6. 7월 7일

35
7th. Tursday. Cool-showers often.
 
36
A rather amusing conversation between Mr. Min and Stein.
37
Stein: "I have been running about these three days to make the arrangements for your visit to different factories. But am told you have written to the Finance Minister for the same object. Of course I know it is all proper and good for you to write to ministers. But, as you know I was going about for the very thing for which you have written to the Minister of Finance you might as well have told me of the letter."
38
Min: "I have two things to complain against you. First some weeks ago I was very anxious to get the seeds of flowers and trees. You directed me to the Botanical garden but you did not go with me.
39
Kim To Il interpreted for me, but his imperfect knowledge of Corean failed to make it clear to me where to get the seeds. Afterwards I learned from the Minister of Agriculture the existence of the Forest School and the Museum. which you had never mentioned to me. You have not shown me any place of interest in the city. Hence a few days ago I wrote to the Ministers of Finance, of the Intercourse and of Communication begging them to show me the institutions under their respective authority that are worth seeing. 2nd. You hurt my feelings most when you suggested that I should affix my official seal to the written statement of the five requests to be sent to Prince Lobanov. When you wrote a memo for the F.O. you didn't ask me to put my stamp on it. When I gave a short memo to the Prince on the inadvisability of a Russo Japanese influence in Corea, you did not ask me to affix my seal to it. Why then did you ask me do so in the case of the written statement of the five requests for the Prince?"
40
Stein: "Whatever you have told me to do I have always tried to do it to my best ability. If I have not been able to go about with you as much as I ought, it is because my Official duties in the F.O. As for the flower seeds, you have never told me to buy them. Besides, seeds can be obtained anywhere. However, in this I am willing to be blamed as much as you want to. But in the matters of putting the official seal to the F.O. I see nothing that I did amiss. The memo which I wrote for Count Kapanist was a private document of mine in which I deemed it my duty not to mention anything you would not approve. But a document of mine could not have your official seal on it. Your memo to the Minister of F.O. on the subject of the possible Russo Japanese arrangement was strictly private. Your opinion on it did not want your seal to make it authoritative. But when you wanted to give the Prince a document stating the items of business for which you have come to Russia, then you were opening a negotiation with the Russian government. Hence your document needed the official seal. Moreover I advised it that the F.O. might not slightly treat your document."
 
41
Min, with his usual obstinacy, refused (or pretended not) to be convinced by this true clear arguement, and asked me if Stein had not acted wrong to suggest to affix the seal. I politely informed His Excellency that I did not see anything at all wrong about or in it. Disgusted with my answer Min, with his mock humility, sighed and said, "well, I was the only one who was wrong then." Then followed the usual result of such a conversation, mutual confession and reconciliation etc, sincere, no doubt, in Stein but affected on the part of Min.
42
At 2 p.m. Min, 2 Kims and myself went to the Technological School to attend the celebration of the anniversary of the 100th birthday of Nicolas 1, the patron of the institution. There were two papers read and some speeches made, but all Russian to me. The engine rooms, work shops etc. were shown to us with a deal of courtesy.
43
Prince Androkoff called on us. He claims to have descended from one of the last emperors of the Byzantine empire. He is a humbug.
44
Min may think or suspect that I have misrepresented him to Sein. On this score, however, I am conscience free and honor bright. I have never said a word, to Stein of what I think or know of Min. On the other hand I have always tried to soften any offensive words Min might use in talking with Stein. I have assured Stein time and again what affection and confidence Min has for him, how sorry he is at the prospect of being separated from Stein etc. Of course Stein is not a fool. He can't help seeing and noticing M's attitude and treatment of me. The other day Stein said to me on the street, "Mr. Yun, I sympathize with you for Mr. M's unfair treatment of you. I admire your delicate and patient bearing of the disagreeable situation, which you don't deserve."
 
 

7. 7월 8일

46
8th. Wednesday. Cool, very.
 
47
French lesson usual.
48
This p.m. Mr. Min actually requested the commercial agent in the Agricultural Museum to order for him an outfit of a windmill and a pump with a steel frame. When I asked Son Excellence if he intended to set these implements up in his country home, he answered, "No matter where, there will be use for them." What provokes me is that Mr. Min may very likely defray the cost and expenses of these implements out of the Mission Fund. If he does not, of course, I have nothing to say in his private affairs.
49
The agent told Min that the implements would be sent to Chemulpo from Hamburg.
 
 

8. 7월 9일

51
9th. Thursday. Pleasant cloudy.
 
52
At 12 Mr. M, two K's, Stein and myself escorted by an official from the Treasury went to see the State Paper Mills. Here is manufactured all the paper used in government service through out Russia. Paper money printed here. 3,700 men and women employed. 8 hours per day. The engraver gets 600 Rs per year. About 240 Rs for the common laborer a year.
53
The New Cotten Mills next. The manager, Mr. Henry Howard, is an Englishman. The establisement has 2,300 horse power; 1,800 workmen and woman; 95,000 spindles; 1,900, looms turning out 45,000 pieces, each containing 58 1/2 achins. Wages range between 22 and 50 Rs per month. 13 1/4 hours of work.
54
Not contented with showing us the working details of the mills, the Howards, father, son and daughter gave us a very nice refreshment at their home.
55
4. p.m. called on Sir O'conner, the Britsh Ambassador. He gave us extracts from the London Times telling what interested hospitality the German manufacturers had extened to Li Hong Tchang, and how disappointed they were when, the Chinese statesman, just before leaving Germany for France, told them that he had nothing to buy from them.
56
The English minister has that sort of easy manner which a proud Briton acquires from prolonged dealings with Orientals.
57
Called on Mr. Breckenridge, the American Minister. He hails from Arkansas. I always feel at home when I meet an American in a strange land. Home at 6:30.
58
At 8 Stein and I took a drive. Went into the zoological garden. Good beer. Met Mr. Maack. Home 2 apre minuit.
 
 

9. 7월 10일

60
10th. Friday. Cool-sunny
 
61
This morning Mr. Min and Kim T.I. went to the museum of Agriculture to make the final arrangement with the agent for the implements. At 1 p.m. Min had an interview with prince Lobanov.K.T.I. went with him. Min carries on things with as much secrecy as if he were negotiating the sale of Corea!
62
Min's notion of diplomacy: duplicity, deceit, secret intrigues.
63
His notion of humility: Sighing, heaping on himself all sorts of self debasing terms. His notion of dignity: Stick out the lips like those of a hog. Stoop and walk in paces as long as the two legs could make.
64
His notion of authority: Capricious treatment of those who are under him shows to that it is his high prerogative to be kind or unkind, fair or unfair to a person not according to any reason or rhyme but according to his pleasure.
65
His notion to politenese; Fulsome praises, nauseous professions of unfelt friendship.
66
His notion of prudence: littleness, unnecessary secrecy.
67
His notion of forbearance: conceal your grudges and hatred under smiles and aim your blows at your enemy on the back unawares.
68
His notion of economizing the public money! Sighs and groans that he can't afford to spend a cent of the public money uselessly, but wastes nearly 1,500 Rs for agricultural implements, a windmill and a flour mill which will rot and rust away in Corea.
69
His notion of gentility: Doing nothing.
 
 

10. 7월 11일

71
11th.(1st of 6th Moon). Saturday. Bright and pleasant.
 
72
French lesson usual.
73
After lunch, sat two hours for Mr. Alexander to finish my portrait which he began painting at Moscow. He is a member of the Imperial Academy of Fine Arts. When I asked him why such rich towns like Petersburg or Moscow have so poorly paved streets. "Only one answer to it, namely stupidity," said he. "We are so used to imperial ordinances," the artist continued, "that if the Czar should order the better pavement of the streets, we would do so by the hour he might name."
74
Mr. Alexander was ordered, on acc't of his rapidity of painting, to paint the portraits of 38 persons representing different Asiatic nations during the Coronation. He thinks that there is more likeness between the Corean and the Japanese than between the Corean and the Chinese. "Your features," said he, "are more European than those of a Chinese." From the similarity of sounds there, is between Japanese names and those of Finland, the artist confidently thinks that the two peoples of Japan and Finland have a common origin. Oh for a quiet home secure with my loved ones! I ask for no luxuries or excitement but only comfort, love and home.
75
As I look back on my past career, my character was the loveliest in the years of 1885-6. I was then an enthusiastic inquirer after truth and a seeker of knowledge. There was no bitterness in my soul. If I was sad as an exile from my parental home, it was a form of sadness that was chaste and elevating. I loved all, believed all. trusted all. For every new item of knowledge that I acquired in nature or science or religion, I was hopeful, happy and thankful. I was diligent, contented and sweet. Yes, my student life in the humble rooms of the Anglo Chinese College of Shanghai was a golden period of my existence. For the joys of that period I thank Professor Bonnell and Dr. Allen.
76
What a different being I am now! The experience I have acquired during the past ten years in different climes and under varied circumstances has made me wiser in the worldly sense of it but by no means better or happier. How often I have to fight against the bitterest thoughts of pessimism and skepticism and of discontent under the cover of the fairest smiles! Lord Jesus, have mercy on me, a sinner. God bless W.B. Bonnell, the loving friend of my lasting gratitude!
77
Min could and should have chosen Kim T.I. for his interpreter from the start. Especially as he (Mr. Min) kindly told me in America that he had received an instruction from the King to employ K.T.I. for all important negotiations. I could have no reason to complain if I had been excluded from the Mission affairs from the first. But Min, on the ground that Kim T.I. can't speak Corean properly and intelligently, asked me, against my modest protests, to interpret for him. Then all of a sudden, without a word of explanation, he kicks me out entirely of the Mission affairs. This action of Min implies either that I have betrayed his confidence or that I have proved an incapable interpreter. Of the two charges I am perfectly innocent.
78
What then am I to do? 1. I may demand an explanation, producing a scene, which I don't like. 2. Or I may quietly separate myself from the Mission and go my own way. I may accept the offer which the university has proposed to me. But then I can't support my family in Shanghai. 3. The only thing is to bear the whole thing patiently, though painfully, to the end of the journey. Had a pleasant evening with Tolstoy's War and Peace. Bed at 1 a.m.
 
 

11. 7월 12일

80
12th.Sunday. Beautiful.
 
81
A little past 12 a.m. Sir O'Conner called on Mr. M. The British representative, in a careless and unconcerned way, asked Min if he had signed any conventions or transacted any business here. Of course he received an answer in the negative. What a nonsense to ask such questions!
82
Min praised England and Queen Victoria in so fulsome words of Asiatic politeness that the Briton seemed to be evidently disgusted, inspite of my effort to make Min's childish eulogies as little offensive as possible. O'Conner cut short the nauseous nonsenses which Min, with affected smiles, poured on him, by asking "When will you be back to Corea?"
83
About 9 p.m. prince Androkoff dropped in. When I announced him to Mr. M. who was taking a bath. Son Excellence said "Didn't you tell him I was out?" Well at last Min came out and told the visitor that he was enraptured to see his "bon ami." Then Mr. Androkoff got off some of his chestnuts on brotherhood of men and the blessings of peace etc. Mr. Min (to himself) said. "What a chatterbox!" Then assuming a delighted expression he said to the visitor, "Yes, you are one of the few whom I have met in Europe holding such beautiful sentiments. When I return to Corea, I shall tell my friends that I found in you a friend whose discourse has enlarged and enlightened my narrow views." Again. "We Coreans would sooner become civilized if we had more men like you." For this the prince thanked His Excellency and asked some questions on the population, schools etc. of Corea. When he got ready to go, Min smiled graciously and said, "Oh! I am so happy to see you that I can find no word to express my joy." The guest thanked him again, and while shaking hands for an adieu, Min said "If I were to live 90 or 100 years I should always be your good friend. So would you be too!"
84
The prince had no sooner stepped out of the room than Min laughed right out for the successful gentleman and diplomat which he had just played on the young visitor. If pained me to interpret these fulsome and false words of Mr. Min, who is now too big a diplomat, in his own estimation, to listen to me.
85
This evening a telegram reached Min informing him of the arrival of Min Kiung Sik at Odessa. The second party seems to have come by the French mail. What next? An audience next Tuesday.
86
Stein told Min this p.m. that Prince Lobanov is seriously thinking about the feasibility of lending the King a guard should His Majesty remove to Meung Nie Koong, and that the final settlement of this question would depend largely on Waeber's recommendations. Min thanked Stein for the information.
87
Mr. Hetrovo, the Russian minister at Tokio, who had returned to Petersburg on a furlough some months ago, died yesterday.
 
 

12. 7월 13일

89
13th.Monday. Beautiful.
 
90
At 6 p.m. Mr. Min, or rather, the Mission, entertained Plancon, his wife and Alexander the Artist in the Felician Restaurant. Three Steins and all the members of our Mission. A pleasant dinner. At 8 all of us went aboard a small steamboat belonging to the Department of Communication and which the Minister of the Department had lent to Mr. Min for an excursion. Steamed out some distance from the mouth of the Neva. On our way home we steered our boat through the Sea Canal and the Fantanca. The former extends from Cronsdatd to the Neva, for 25 versts. For the half of that distance the Canal has embankments, on the both sides planted with shrubs, trees, and grass. The Canal enables large vessels to sail right into Petersburg.
91
Returned home about 10:30.
 
 

13. 7월 14일

93
14.th.Tuesday. Beautiful.
 
94
At 12 Mr. Min, 2 K's, Stein and myself hurried to the Baltic Station for the 12:40 train for Peterhoff. A special wagon was provided for us. A master of ceremonies met us at the Station and escorted us to Peterhoff.
95
Reached New Peterhoff Station about 1:30 p.m. Thence, in the carriages sent out from the palace, we proceeded to the Great Palace. Then to the Little Palace, where the Czar now stays.
96
2:15 p.m. Just before we went in for the audience, Mr. Min asked Kim Deuk Nien and me to stay behind him and Kim To Il. But the grand Master of Ceremonies ushered in all of us and I found myself in the private study of the Czar, where the audience de Conge took place. Min didn't know I was there. So he mumbled out something about a message which he had received from the King authorizing him to thank the Czar, for the interest which Russia takes in Corea's welfare etc. Next, to my utter amusement and amazement, Min said, "As I have already mentioned to Prince Lobanov, may it please Your Majesty, to make the Meung Nie Koong arrangement practicable!" Then looking back he saw me and I shall never forget his wretched expression of vexation. He again asked Fish and me to go out for a few minutes. Well, I did so.
97
My blood boiled with indignation. Didn't my father run the risk of his very life to help the King? Didn't I try my best to help the King during his confinement? Was I not one of the first who suggested to the King that he should remove to Meung Nie Koong? Had I not all along told Min my inmost thoughts on Corean politics? Now is it fair to confide state secrets to Kim To Il and keep them strictly from me? If Min and his worthy Master suspect me of disloyalty, such an abominable treatment is enough to cool one's heart in their cause. I felt angry and sad.
98
About half an hour later, Kim D.N. and I were called in. When I got in, I looked at the Czar full in the face. Then, most unexpectedly, His Majesty, resting his kindly eyes on me, asked "Are you going back with the minister too? "Yes, Sir." said I. "Are you going by Odessa?" the Czar asked. "The route has not been decided on as yet. But very likely we may go by Marseilles," I answered. "Oh then," demanded the Czar, "you will take the Message ie Maritime live." "Yes, Sir" responded I. The Czar said. "Will you stay in China long?" "No, sir. We may stay there a week or so for a steamer to Corea." Shanghai, then Chefoo and Chemulpo―do you go that way?" asked His Majesty. I said "Yes Sir, very often. But sometimes there are boats direct from Shanghai to Chemulpo."
99
This gracious notice which the Czar took of me pleased my vanity and soothed my wounded sensibility. Thus ended probably the last audience I shall ever have with the handsome and gracious Czar of All Russias. May the blessings of Heaven rest on him.
100
Returning to the Great Palace we had a little refreshment of tea, milk, cakes, wine etc. Thence to the "Hotel Samson" where were Mr. Maack, his brother the Doctor, and three other friends. Dr. Maack brought with him his 2nd daughter, Mary. She is one of the sweetest and prettiest girls I have seen. She speaks Russian, German, French and English. But for her charming and healing smiles and looks, which like the sun shone on the just and the just alike, I would have had a miserable time of it whole day. Thanks to her!
101
Took in the Palaces, fountains and every object of inerest in Peterhoff. The fountains in front of the Great Palace are especially beautiful. The water comes about 6 miles away from Peterhoff. The fountains, seen almost everywhere in Peterhoff, play 3 to 5 and 7 to 9 p.m. Saw, in the Palace Alexander, the chairs, shoes, tables which Peter the Great made with his own hands. One interesting fact is that in almost all the Palaces I have seen here, there is one or more so called Chinese rooms, distinguished from other rooms by grotesqueness and to me unattractiveness.
102
The factory where stone works are carried on is an interesting place. They are now engaged in polishing and ornamenting the stone materials which will go to beautify the cathedral commemorating the bloody fall of Alexander Ⅱ.
103
Dinner at the Hotel Samson 6 p.m. There was nothing to be much enjoyed except the bewitching presence of Mary Maack and her "I thank you." After dinner drove to the Babigon Palace which commands a splendid view. Took the 10:22 train for Petersburg. At the Baltic Station, as I shook hands with Miss Mary Maack, we said "Au revoir." But hopeless words! When shall we meet again?
104
According to Kim T.I., Min has decided to take the Siberian route 3 days ago. Not a word to me. After all, there could be no honorable secrets between Russia and the King and Min so far as Corea is concerned. I needn't regret of being kept out of such secrets as I can easily guess.
 
 

14. 7월 15일

106
15th.Wednesday Beautiful.
 
107
French lesson usual.
108
In the afternoon, received letters from father and mother written on the 21st May. Was happy to read them. Messrs. Min Kiung Sik and Joo Suk Mien arrived at Petersturg this a.m. They came to the Legation about 8 p.m. They left Seoul on the 4th of April. Sung Ki Woon went back from Shanghai on account of his seasickness.
 
 

15. 7월 16일

110
16th.Thursday. Beautiful.
 
111
No French lesson.
112
At 10:30 went to see the cartridge manufactory. 400,000 rounds a day. If pressed, a million rounds per day.
113
After lunch, went to the Caloco Printing Establishment. This immense concern of 500 h.p. of 8 printing machines, of 2,000 workmen and women, belongs to one man, named Carle. Working hours 13:30 a day of which 2 hours are given for meals. 2,200 pieces containing 60 achins dyed or printed a day. 40 engravers whose wages are from 70 to 80 Rs per month. 17 to 25 Rs for common workmen a month. The factory started 59 years ago on a very limited scale by the father of the present owner. When first begun only about 20 pieces a day.
114
Mr. Min has turned 2 Kim's out of their beds tonight to accommodate Min and Joo but would not let either of the newcomers have the bed of his garson.
 
 

16. 7월 17일

116
17th. Friday. Beautiful.
 
117
9:30 a.m. went to see cartridge filling factory, 1,000 workmen and women. The working hours from 7 p.m. Women get 60 k. each day. Men 1 R. each. Then on to the Arsenal where cannon balls are made and also gun carriages. Opposite to the Arsenal a wooden factory where wheels, boxes etc. are made. All the best machines either American or English.
118
A good nap after lunch. A cool evening. Between 10:30 p.m. and 2 a.m. dark.
119
Received a letter from the Minister of Public Instruction offering me the lectureship of the Corean language.
120
Stein told Min this p.m. that a rumor there goes concerning the probability of Waeber's leaving Corea and of Speyer's taking the post.
121
Mr. Maack came to see us today for the last time as he goes to the country. He gave me a beautiful silver cup.
122
Joo Suk Mien amused me today by saying that the German government would not give any office to Mollendorf, because he had once worn the Corean dress. To think that the Chinese are praiseworthy because they don't change their costume in the foreign countries.
 
 

17. 7월 18일

124
18th.Saturday. Beautiful and hot. (TABLE)
 
125
==8(86,000r each) ..==12 in.gun.==
126
==8 to 10.................==10 in.gun.==
127
==20............................==8 in.gun.==
128
==70............................==6 in.gun.==
 
129
At 9 a.m. went to see the dockyard. An immense affair. A first class ironclad is being under construction. Its tonange over 12,000. A first class vessel requires from 4 to 6 years for completion. The government work is slower as every item of expense has to pass through the sanction of proper authorities. There are 7 dockyards in Russia. From 20 to 25 vessels could be worked on at the same time.
130
From the dockyard, went on a steamboat to the cannon foundry. A magnificent establishment. A 12 in. gun requires 12 months. The factory makes in a year.
131
Smaller guns and torpedoes are in all stages of construction.
132
Visited in a hurry the interesting Naval Museum.
133
8 p.m. returned the visit of Lieutenant Yashiro, the Naval Attache of the Japan Legation. Had first met him in Moscow. He studies Russian. He spoke freely of the unsteadiness of Inouye, of the foolishness of Miura, of the want of a decided and consistent Corean policy on the part of the Japanese government. "As long as," he said truly, "Prince Uihua is kept in Japan by interested parties, either Corean or Japanese, no matter what Japan may profess, Corea will not trust her. The best place the prince should go for study is Belgium or Holland or Swizerland."
134
He lamented the shortsightedness of Japan in bullying Corea and in having sent to Seoul men of rash and inexperienced character who curry favor with the Japanese merchants at the expense of amicable relations with Coreans.
135
10:30 called on. Mad. Boioin and paid 40 Rs for my French lessons. What I have actually learned isn't worth 4 cents. Not her fault though.
 
 

18. 7월 20일

137
20th.Monday. Hot.
 
138
Up at 8 a.m. Went on board one of the Imperial yachts, "Onega," at 9.2 hours steaming brought us to Cronsdatd the northern sea entrance to Petersburg. The Imperial yacht Poliarraio Zvezda visited. She is a beauty. She has 600 h.p., 350 marines, 15 officers, 6 guns, and the speed of 19 to 21 knots. The woodwork in the rooms is beautiful beyond description. 3 milli on Rs.
139
Then visited the Navarine, one of the biggest warships in the Baltic Fleet. Then the fortresses Constantine, Paul and Peter 1. guarding the throat, so to speak, of Russia against all comers. At 2 p.m. a refreshing dinner, at the Seamens Club, given by Admiral. Paid official visits to the Government General of Cronsdated, and to the commander of the Fortresses.
140
The town has wide but ill paved streets. To a chance observer, the city, as such, presents no special interest.
141
Returned to Petersburg at 6 p.m. Kim Deuk Nien and I accepted the invitation of Leutenant Winogradsky to dine with him. To our surprise he took us to the house of Mr. Mabaman, a cavalry officer, who entertained us very hospitably . At the table there was a naval officer who spoke a little Japanese.
142
A very lovely woman presided at the head of the table. Mr. Winogradsky informed me that she is a civil wife of the host.
143
At 11:30 Winogradsky and two other friends took us to Acadis. Thence to the Krestovsty Garden. Here met Stein and other. Had ridden on the automatic cars. Took spontaneous photos. Then our friends took us to a room. Two pretty girls came in with whom our friends seemed to have a great deal of amusing talk, all, Russian to us. Supper at 3 a.m. Returned home at 4:30, sleepy.
144
There are 18 summer gardens in Petersburg. From 11 to 14, full of pretty women of doubtful character.
 
 

19. 7월 21일

146
21st.Tuesday.
 
147
At 11 a.m. went to see the Waterworks on the Neva. It supplies the whole city with 240,000,000 litres of water a day. 18 filters of gigantic capacity. The materals used for filtering are big stones, gravels and sand. No boiling. The net gain of the works a year is 400,000 Rs. The engines English or American.
 
 

20. 7월 22일

149
22nd.Wednesday. Cloudy, steamy.
 
150
This p.m. 2, Mr. Min and Kim T.I. went to see Prince Lobanov.
151
Min and Joo S.M. are telegraphing to Seoul, the former asking the King that Kim T.I. may go with the Mission while the latter prays that K.T.I. may be allowed to remain with him. Kim told me this p.m. that Min has decided to take the Sibrian route. But M. always gives me evasive answers. I don't see anything that need be secret in the matter of choosing the route.
 
 

21. 7월 27일

153
27th.Monday. Hot.
 
154
At 2 p.m. Miss Mary Maack and her father came to see us. She gave Mr. Min and me one pretty picture book each for our little daughters.
155
To me the visit of this lovely girl was a beautiful beam of sunshine. I have been unhappy enough these many days and weeks. It is exceedingly disagreeable to live in the same house with a man who, because he happens to possess the power, hurts my feelings by unfair treatment. The other evening, when Kim To Il and I went out driving. Min sent his boy with usto prevent any communications of a private nature!
156
Min has a little bit of a soul destitute of any spark of magnanimity and full of jealousies, crooked tricks, "yangbanish" pride.
157
From 3 p.m. a hard rain thunders and lightenings.
158
Stein tells me that Min's repeated requests to the Russian government to keep Waeber at Seoul has exasperated the Foreign Office. Am sorry for Waeber, if that is true, as his interest might be injured should the Russian government suspect him to be the instigator of these requests.
159
At 6 p.m. Mr. M. and others of the Mission went to the Restaurant Erueste to entertain Prince Lobanov, Count Kapanist and Mr. Goubastov. The showers made the flowers and trees fresh and laid the dust in the streets. The dinner and after-dinner talk lasted 2:30 hours. Streets began lighted last night.
 
 

22. 7월 31일

161
31st. Friday. Hot. cloudy.
 
162
At 6:30 p.m. Mr. M, Fish and myself, accompanied by Mr. Plancon, went in a landau to the Pulkova Observatory. The road between the city and the Observatory is as straight as an arrow, lined with shade trees. The Moscow Triumphal Gate, erected for commemorating the victory of Alexander 1 over Napoleon, stands where the town merges into country.
163
The Observatory stands on a beautiful eminence surrounded by a large, well ordered park. The establishment is regarded to be the finest in Europe, having a lens whose diameter is about 34 in. The building in which the largest telescope stands is circular and by means of electricity and mechanism, an observer could turn about the sky lighted dome and the telescope (over 40 feet long) in anyway he pleases. In the front of the building stand two cedar trees planted by Alexander Ⅲ and his consort 12 years ago, when the new telescope was put in.
164
The Petersburg time is regulated from the clock in the Observatory.
165
Unfortunately clouds prevented us from looking at the moon and stars. Returned home at 11. July (N.S.) has not been a very hot month here. All say that this summer has been remarkable for its pleasant temperature and fine weather. No mosquitoes.
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