2
1st. (22nd of 6th Moon). Saturday. Very hot.
3
At 1 p.m. visited the Hermitage and the Winter Palace. Two or three hours are entirely too short even to merely glance at the costly and splendid collections exhibited here. Shall visit the Museum once more alone.
6
Stayed at home. The heat reminded me of Miss Mary Maack, as her visit last time was on a very warm day. What an angel she is! I wonder if I shall ever have the happiness to see her and talk with her again.
7
Wrote to father and mother two days ago.
9
3rd. Monday. Oppressively hot.
10
About 2:30 p.m. Mr. M. went to see Prince L. in great secrecy―secrecy for my benefit.
11
The Corean chess has been a benefactor to me for the week or so past. The chess and Tolstoy have enabled me to bear my situation more patiently than if I had nothing in interest me.
12
Today being the name day of the Empress Dowager, the town is flagged in day time and illuminated in the night.
13
Read the War and Peace from 9 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.
15
4th. Tuesday. Good breezes a.m.
16
Bed at 1:30. Up at 10 a.m.
17
Madam Stein told me this morning in a great excitement that this a.m. about 3, Modest, her youngest son, and Kim To Il had come home with a woman "apiece," that, on the refusal of the Swiss to admit such females into the house, Kim and Modest proceeded to best the Swiss; that the cries and screams of the women and men enacting the scene aroused all the inmates of the house; that finally, the Swiss succeeded in driving out the women and Madam P. in locking Modest up in her room. She further said that such scandals could not be allowed in a private lodgement, much less in an Ambassador.
18
Of course I would report the same to the chief of the so called "Ambassador" if he were the man who could restrain K. from making such scandals again. But M. dares not offend Kim To Il. Besides, M. may suspect my motive in telling such things on K.T.I. His Majesty the King of Tai Cho Sun, and His Excellency, Min Yong Huan, prefer to confide so called state secrets in such a paragon of a patriot like K.T.I. they know what they want, I suppose.
19
At the lunch table Min Kiung Sik, to my surprise, told Mr. M. the details of the scandal of last night, or rather of this morning. Kim To Il had the cheek enough to throw the whole blame on Modest Stein. But Min Kiung Sik gave it to Kim T.I. and the young man in whom His Majesty and Son Excellence have such confidence couldn't say a word in defence. His Excellency sighed and lectured on the impropriety of a Corean officer acting so, on the evil of drinking excessively, on the danger of frequenting the gardens etc. His admonitions were as watery as the brain from which they flowed. Min threatens to report the misbehavior of Kim T.I. to the king by a telegram. All nonsense!
20
If I were Kim T.I. I wouldn't care a copeck for all the lectures and threats of Son Excellence. Kim T.I. doesn't either. For what has he to fear from the frown of Min Yong Huan or of the King either? Kim has no character to lose, no reputation to soil, no family to look after in Corea. Neither His Majesty nor Son Excellence can or will harm him. Besides the more rascally a man is the better he will get on with His Majesty, the King of Corea.
21
Modest Stein, the youngest brother of E. Stein, is a regular crack headed, no account scapegrace. He is now only 20 years old. He may come out all right though, by and by. In my life I have seen so many wonderful transformations in the character and conditions of men that I hesitate to pronounce my judgment on the finality of any person's character, be it bad or good.
22
At 5:30 p.m. Mr. Min and others of the Mission went to the Restaurant Erueste to entertain some of the Russian officers who have been kind to us in our rounds of sightseeing. Out of the 16 persons at the table, 10 were Russians. Of them, 2 from the F.O. 2 from the Finance Dept. 1 from the war Dept. 6 from the Admiralty.
23
The one to whom my attention was especially drawn was Col. Putiata. He has been appointed by the Russian government to proceed to Corea for the purpose of examining into the condition of the military affairs of Corea. His intelligent face is rather of the Italian than of the Russian type. When he gets to Corea he may be asked to take charge of the reorganization of the Corean soldiery.
24
Granting, as a matter of fact that Col. P is well up in the technical details of the military system, he seems to be lacking in the most important article which a civilized man must possess in a barbarous land viz. Patience. In a man who undertakes the task of reorganizing the Corean Army, I would like to see one with a high forehead bespeaking sense and thought; a prominent lower jaw giving immovability to his yea's and nay's; kindly smiles heightening the power of personal magnetism; and broad shoulders enabling him to bear easily the arduous burdens of a trying responsibility.
25
After the dinner, the party sat out in the pretty garden to enjoy the cool hours of a Petersburg evening. While Mr. M. was engaged with his guests in mutual professions of love and never changing friendship―which, by the way, is as evanescent as the Champagne fumes―while each of the party was no doubt agitated by various interests and motives, while I amused myself with the thought how contemptible and pitiable we all are with our petty schemes of success, of hatred, or of love, our torments of fear or of hope, while I my fellow mortals grind away the blade of our lives on the ever and ever whirling wheel of fortune or fate, how beautiful and refreshing it was to see the fountain play and the leaves dance in the evening breezes perfectly unconscious of the changing moods and voices of humanity.
26
Immortality! Is the superiority of the human intelect to the bristal a proof positive for our immortality? A bee or an ant is as superior to a worm as a monkey is to a bee or an ant in the scale of intelligence. The distance between the monkey and man…is it much greater than that between the bee and the monkey? I wot not. Why should not a bee or an ant have its theory and hope of immortality? Why should not a monkey believe that its soul would live forever, while that of a bee or of an ant should perish? If they―the bee or the monkey―are not correct in such beliefs, why is man's theory of immortality any more correct? More light!
28
5th. Wednesday. Very breezy.
29
Read all a.m. After lunch visited the imperial Glass and Porcelain Factory. Thence visited the Petersburg candle factory. The latter establishment was started in 1846. It is run by English capitalists. From 250,000 to 300,000 candles a day. Workmen 425. Hours 11 day and night. A woman can make 1,200 candle cases a day receiving 40 Rob. per 1,000. The small candles, usually for Xmas trees, are in great demand among the peasant class who don't want or need much light. Last year the factory turned out nearly a hundred million of the small candles. The Greek Church does not allow candles of the sanctuaries. Only wax candles used for that purpose. Candlemaking is a source of income to the church.
32
Sent the following answer to Count Dolokoff, the Minister of Education.―
33
"Dear Sir, I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of Y.E's letter of the 14th of July offering me the lectureship of the Corean language at the Imperial University of St. Petersburg. In answer to the above, allow me to say that as far as I can see now I am not at all sure of my return to Russia in the near future. Though I am thus unable to accept the situation on the uncertain condition of my return to Petersburg, I assure Y.E. of my gratitude for the offer."
34
All day long today there have been consultations, in Mr. M's room with a shut door, among Min and Fish. They seem to be preparing certain document. At 4 p.m. Min called on the Minister of Finance.
35
Dined on board of the yacht Onega with Lient Winzdgravsky. He has 2 old Corean porcelain dishes of a great value on account of its age and perfect preservation. He gave a rifle for both. Mr. Waeber offered to pay 150 Yen apiece.
36
Stein returned tonight from his country trip.
38
7th. Friday. Cool-showery.
39
Some kind of a secret meeting in Min's room this morning with the door locked. Min, 2 Ks and the garcon need know all this secrecy etc. I alone must be excluded from their plans and secrets as if I were a recognizied enemy to the good of Corea.
40
Sad and tormented all the morning. Whom shall I unburden myself to? To Fish, the slave? To son, the valet? To Kim T.I? No! Stein alone remains my sympathetic friend. But I shall not say anything to him concerning what torments me, the unfair and treacherous treatment of Min Yong Huan, for the simple reason that, as Stein expects to return to Seoul, he likes to be on good termes with him who is to have greater influence in Corea, and that as Min compared with me, no doubt, will enjoy greater influence in Corea, why should I in the least prejudice S. against him by my complaints?
41
Min called on Prince L. at 1:30 p.m.
42
By the way Fish is most worthy of his bread here. He has worked and is working hardest of us all. Ever since we came to Petersburg he has been at work to get up-to-date the journal of the Mission. He copies much from certain Chinese diaries of a similar nature. Yet it is work to write pages on pages day after day.
43
The further I drift away from the Gospel line of life, the fiercer diverse passions burn in me; the weaker I find my reason, so called, and experience to subdue my unruly spirit; the bitterer the cup tastes, the feebler my faith grows in a benevolent providence; the longer I see rascality, craft and falsehood triumph over honesty, sincerity and truth; the more discontented I become with myself and others, the stronger I feel convinced that Christianity is the sublimest philosophy that a man may possess for his consolation and wisdom. Why can't I believe and be saved from the hell of my wickedness?
44
At 3 p.m. received a very delightful letter from Mrs. Waeber and my father. The former is dated the 3rd of June and the latter one day later.
46
8th. Saturday. Cloudy-cool.
47
This morning Mr. Min, in his authoritative tone which he has of late adopted, ordered Stein to get money ready to pay for the traveling expenses of Colonel Putiata. Stein and I protested against the proposed "order" on the ground that the Corean government is under no obligation to pay for the traveling expenses of a military agent of the Russian government. Min dropped his "order."
48
Min had bought a complete set of the musical instruments of a military band. The whole thing costs over 3,000 Rs! No wonder he doesn't like me, because I never try to hide my disgust whenever "His excellency" (E.E. and M.P.) wastes public money on things that are unnecessary, nay, even useless.
49
At 7 p.m. went to the New Club to dine with Prince Lobanov who had invited us. Mr. Min, Count Kapanist, Mr. Goubastov, 2 Ks and Joo besides.
51
13th. (5th of 7th Moon). Thursday. Cold and rainy.
52
Almost as cold as a winter day in Shanghai.
53
The relation between Mr. Min and me has improved a bit. Possibly two causes; One, my decision to stay behind, relieving, as it does, both our minds of the disagreeable apprehension of a forced companionship for two months of the Siberian journey. Another's the Corean chess, which is the neutral ground on which we meet heartily in good fellowship.
54
Called on Yashiro, the diplomatic naval attache of the Japanese Legation, 4 pm. Among the first words he spoke, he said, "I hear that a large number of military instructors are going out to Corea." Then I told him that only one is going out and that as a military agent of the Russian government, the naval gentleman, in an ironical tone remarked, "Didn't your Minister telegraph to the Corean government reading "Everything all right".
55
I answered, and truly, that I did not know that Mr. Min had sent such a message. Yashiro seemed to be skeptical at my ignorance and said, "Ah, the Corean Cabinet can't keep any secrets. We know all about what they do." 萬事都合ヨシ
56
He, notwithstanding his European education, couldn't help betraying the weak point to the Japanese character, viz. shallowness. It is certainly of very bad taste, to say the least, to throw at your face what you are supposed to hold as a secret. By the way, never tell a man that you can read his secrets. For if you fail reading his mind correctly, as you may ten to one, you make yourself ridiculous. If you really know his secrets, it makes him uneasy and touchy with you.
57
Well, what did Yashiro gain by trying to be so smart? Nothing but my pity for his Japanses thinness. In my long experience with Japanese I have seen very few whose sweetness lasts over two interviews, unless they have some interest in my friendship.
58
There is no accounting for taste. The most trusted servants who always guard the door of the present Czar's room are two negroes, in gaudy and grotesque uniforms.
59
The pubic gardens here has some nude statues―not very elevating, to my mind. It may be said that to the pure all things are pure. Very true. But will anybody hold for a single second that the throngs of women and men who look at these nude statues and photo and pictures exhibited everywhere are such pure beings as to be beyond the reach of temptation?
60
I composed last night 4 couplets in Chinese expressing my farewell sentiment. I have made no effort, as I am unable, to conform them to the accepted rules of verse making. But both Mr. Min and Fish congratulated me this morning on my success. The verses run;
65
I was touched with gratitude when Mr. Min this morning said, with unwonted enthusiasm, "Be diligent with your French. You have talents capable of much success. Those who have been for years at verse making can hardly turn out couplets as gracefully as you have done. And you never had the opportunity of cultivating the art either! Study your French."
66
Immorality is rampant here. Of course I can't tell among what class it is most so. But the number of young women who are engaged in the disrespectable traffic of prostitution is very large. No sooner twilight deepens into dusk than the whole length of the great Nevsky Street gets beflowered with painted women, some pretty and others ugly, each having her price. It is said that, between the Fontanka bridge and the Alexander Park, any woman might be accosted, after 11 p.m., with impunity! Later in the night young women might be seen asking some belated men to go to their homes. In the summer gardens throngs of such females are found. A large number of Bohemians or Gypsies with dark eyes and hair make these places of amusement still more seductive. The "Orthodox" religion, which multiplies cathedrals upon cathedrals, is deemed to be powerless for purifying the social morals.
67
Religion in Russia seems to be one of the political forces―and scarcely anything more.
70
Had a poor rest last night. This morning, told Mr. Min that I had dicided to go to France. The reason.
71
I have given up one of the best chances I shall ever have of visiting Siberia under the most flattering cirumstances. What for? In order that I might make something of the French study which I have begun. But the time and money at my disposal are very limited. I can not afford to fool away either in Petersburg. I must make the most of what little money I have―that is I must learn as much French as possible in one or two months. Either Paris or Marseille would therefore be better for me than Petersburg.
72
Received a letter from my dear Sieutsung, dated May 30 and June 15. Pages full of love. The letter made me glad but sad too. When I married, I thought that my wanderings were over and that I could settle down into a family life. But what storms have I had since!
73
By the 7 p.m. train, with Mr. Min and others, went to Pavlovsk to see Col. Putiata. Found his wife a pretty and exceedingly lively woman. She tried her best to make me talk French. A very nice refreshment of tea, fruits, and cakes. Returned by the 11 p.m. train.
75
16th. Sunday. Cool, rainy.
76
Where is Heaven? Nobody knows. But millions upon millions go, or think they go, there every day, nay, every hour, by all manner of conveyances, the prayer wheels of centralkia, the masses and unctions of the Catholic and Greek churches, the Namu-ami-ta-pul of the Eastern Buddhists, the charms and fatalism of Mohammedans, the fervent prayers and liturgies of the Protestant Christianity Paradise must be a very populous and cosmopolitan city with all this crowd.
77
Isn't it more rational to maintain with enlightened schools of Christianity that nobody may go to Heaven but through faith in Christ of God and a life worthy of the faith. But then it is not likely that one out of ten millions can get there.
78
At hat are then the natural conclusions, Namely:
79
1. That there is no God. But this I can't accept.
80
2. That God is so merciful that every sinner shall be saved. This I can't accept.
81
3. That God is so just that no one may be saved but he who keeps the divine laws. This I can understand, but who can be saved, then? That millions must perish every hour on this condition appalls the imagination. May it not be true, then.
82
4. That there is a God who runs the universe, but that he has nothing to do with human life and morality? If so, all the systems of morality and religion from the lowest to the hightest must be the inventions of man for his self-protection. Then the doctrines of immortality, of providence, and of retribution on which are based all systems must be non-existent, hence, lies.
83
But then how can I account for the indisputable fact that the stronger one believes in providence, immortality, and retribution, the purer and nobler man he becomes? Maybe this is so on the principle that often pardonable lies have to be told to persons insane or sick for absolutely beneficial purposes. Isn't it true that all of us are more or less insane and sick in our moral nature?
84
If so, those who believe in the cardinal doctrines of religion must be more insane, sicker and more stupid than those who don't believe in God. Then Paul, Luther, the Wesleys, and hosts of other saintly men of Christianity in all ages and in all countries must have been and are the craziest, sickliest and the most foolish of all their contemporaries―which would be a nonsense!
85
Oh me! Is there no way of solving this mystery satisfactorily?
86
After dinner Mr. Min, Kim D.N. and myself drove to the Islands for the last time―for me. Very cool and rained hard on the way home. The gas and electric lights along the banks of the Neva and the streets are a beautiful sight.
89
Yesterday evening Gend Pascoff came and dined with us, so happy to see him indeed!
91
17th. Monday. Pleasant, cloudy.
92
Fixed my passport. At the dinner table I gave Stein an enameled napkin ring. On my card accompanying the ring, I wrote "Please accept this as a token of my love and gratitide for your constant friendship." Stein took the present and, smiling, gently pressed my hand. This simple act, plus the agitated mental and spiritual condition, the near prospect of parting from familiar scenes and friends and the uncertainties of the future―all things combined involuntarily brought tears to the eyes. Almost sobbed on my bed. No need trying to analyze the feelings back of the tears. Only I felt so sad, so wretched. The couplet which I composed yesterday expresses my feeling.
93
Mr. Min and Kim D.N. were affected to tears.
94
Between 8:30 and 10 had a good walk to and from the Alexander Bridge. The bridge could be crossed in 5 minutes taking about 525 steps.
96
18th. Tuesday. Pleasant-sunny.
97
This morning Mr. Min was so good as to give me R. 100.00. Very timely and very kind of him.
98
I feel so very lonely. I don't feel worthy enough to pray to God. I feel so unhappy.
99
Wrote letters to dear father and mother care of Mr. Kim D.N.
100
Stein's patriotism is a narrow partiality. His attitude toward me has changed into a decided coolness since I told him of my resolution to go to Paris. Such is the friendship of man!
101
Dined at 6. Left our Kabineski Lodging at 7 p.m. Mr. Min, 2 Ks. Messrs. Joo and Min, besides Mod. Stein accompanied me to the Warsaw Station. Mr. M. gave me a send off glass of champagne. Very cordial parting with them all. Kim To Il seemed to have been touched by the little present I made to him this morning. He assured me of his love and freindship. Left Petersburg at 8:30 p.m. Good-bye!
102
The second class car on the Russian R.R. is very good.
104
19th. Wednesday. Rainy and cool.
105
Traveled all day long in a reflective mood. While there were no dining car or sleeping car luxuries such as I had enjoyed on the way to Moscow, I felt the sweet pleasure of freedom. No more friction with uncongenial companions.
106
No more dread of stepping on somebody's secrets. No more aching loneliness in a crowd.
107
Yes, my Russian trip was a bitter chapter in my history. But whose fault was it that made my stay in Russia so unpleasant? No doubt my inability to accommodate myself into the feelings and prejudices of my official superior was the principal cause. Now all over―I hope!
108
At 5 p.m. reached the German frontier town of Eydskheen. Here custom examinations gone through. To Berlin 714 kilometers. The German side of the frontier has less forests, more cultivation and nicer cottages. Things in Germany seem to be more in shipshape than in Russia, where peasants are in a poor condition. An Englishman told me that in many a Russian house two or three families live in one room.
109
The second class cars on the German R.R, are as good as one may desire. Each compartment accommodates 6 persons. A seat tax of 2 marks is collected from each 2nd class traveler. Dinners served at moderate prices.
110
The country along the road under high cultivation. Everything shows the signs of carefulness and industry. Red brick cottages prettily set off by green trees and shrubs. Women of all ages work in the field with men. Towns all manufacturing.
112
20th. Thursday. Bright-pleasant.
113
Reached Berlin 6 a.m. Difference of 1 hour from Petersburg.
114
Clean and well paved streets. Coachmen more modern and neat looking than those of Russia. Dogcarts amusing―strongly reminded me of an American town―a deal of life in the streets―school children in 3's and 5's going in all directions with knapsacks―policemen with bright helmets more gentlemanly looking than those of Russia.
115
With an English friend went to the Exposition. Nothing to be compared with that of Chicago. The Alpine Panorama was a splendid sight, well worth 1 mark. The mountains, glaciers, the cattle on the hillsides, the children playing, the snow, the trees―all so natural. The illusion was perfect.
116
Left Berlin at 11:30 a.m. A good run through a beautifully cultivated country. A lively American with a nice little wife in the same room with me. Reached Cologne at 9:30 p.m. Waited until 11:20 for the Paris train.
117
The 2nd class on the French line very wretched worse than the 3rd class on the Russian or German lines.
119
21st. Friday. Pleasant.
120
At Jenmont (?) a frontier town, the hand baggage examined 5 a.m. Reached La Gare du Nord at 8:30 a.m. Went straight to the Central Hotel on the Lafayette Street No. 86. The manager of the hotel is Suwa, a Japanese.
121
Paris at last! A beautiful town. The streets, the boulevards, the stores, the buildings are really grand. The streets are literally alive with people.
122
In order to locate myself in this big city, I went out soon after breakfast. Armed with a copy of Baedeker, went about along the main streets and Avenues around the Madeleine and the Place de la Concorde. The Avenue des Champs Elyseess and the Ave de la Grand Armee, all in one stretch, are at least, 1/3 wider than the Nevsky, having two broad lines of asphalt sidewalks between two rows of shade trees. These Avenues are the most beautiful I have ever seen.
123
Along the principal Boulevards, on each side of the broad and clean sidewalks are found restaurants. Innumerable number of light chairs, grouped around in three's or two's around small tables, are placed outside of the saloon entrances. The drivers of Paris look smart cracking their whips apparently for the sake of producing sharp popgunlike sounds and for no other purpose. In the principal streets, carriages and other vehicles are in a constant stream both ways all day long and far into the night.
124
Women are certainly beautiful, more so in Paris than in any city I have yet seen. At the Place de la Concorde, met this afternoon an American, who had lived long in Japan as a missionary. His name is Archur Standford. He had once visited Corea.
126
22nd. Saturday. Cloudy and cool.
127
Stayed in my room most of the day. Promenade after dinner up to 10. Mailed letter to my Darling.
129
23rd. Sunday. Cloudy and cool.
130
Attended the Wesleyan Chapel 4 Rm. Roguepine, at 11 a.m. The first time in a Protestant place of worship in 4 months. Of late I have reached the lowest point of religion, or, rather, irreligion. By the mercy of God may I not become a better Christian that I have ever been? Oh Jesus, thou who gave the world the beautiful story of the prodigal son, do thou forgive my unbelief and sins and take me into thy favor and grace!
131
The ritual part of the Wesleyan service was long and dry. The pastor preached a sensible sermon but wanting animation. Yet the worship was a benediction to my sinful soul.
132
The manager of the Central Hotel, Mr. Suwa, came back from the seaside. My surprise was great when he told me that he is the brother of Okkamoto, the Japanese who concocted and carried out the conspiracy against the Queen.
133
After lunch removed to the "pension" or boarding house of Re Poisson beyond the Arc de Triomphe. Mr. Alandford stays here. He knew Lieutenant Foulk.
135
24th. Monday. Cool and cloudy.
136
Up early wrote to Plancon Mink. S. and Mrs. Stein.
137
Went out at 9, intending to find the Russian Legation. Walked, walked, walked. Didn't see Mr. Giers(?) of the Russian Legation to whom I had a letter of introduction from General Pascoff. At the Pont Neuf Squaee saw a number of jugglers performing all sorts of tricks.
138
The French people are very polite. Often a man would go out of his way to show you a place. The soldiers are no bigger than those of Japan. Women are of just the right size. Men are rather inclined to be latitudinally fat. Teeth seem to be the weak point to a French woman. Some of the prettiest girls, when they laugh or talk, display sets of unattractive teeth.
139
It used to surprise me when an American or a European (not French) spoke of the beauty of Paris inspite of his pardonable pride in his own towns and cities. But, once in Paris, I can understand why she is so famed as the Queen-city of the world. In other towns comparatively few streets are worth seeing for their beauty and magnitude. But in Paris almost all the Avenues, Boulevards, and Rues are models of cleanliness, good pavement, and of splendid breadth.
140
One grand difference between the stores here and in Petersburg is that in Russia most of the fine articles are imported from France, England, Germany, while in Paris all the dazzling works of skill and science are home made.
142
25th. Tuesday. Cool, rainy.
143
Called on general Frederick, the Russian military agent in Paris, but he was out. Then called on Captain Uriuthe military attache of the Japanese Legation, to hand him the introductory letter which Lieutenant Yashiro had given me. Found Capt. Uriu (瓜生) a handsome Japanese, agreeable and smart, like all Japanese, at frist sight. It must be a glorious privilege to be a Japanese. He needn't be ashamed of his nationality.
144
Made arrangement with Mr. Arcambeau for three lessons per week, at 3 p.m. Also with Madam who lives in this building for another set of 3 lessons per week between 8 and 9 a.m. See what I shall make of these lessons; 250 francs per lesson.
145
I see in my Corean calendar that yesterday, a year ago, the King and the Queen of Corea gave a grand entertainment to the Foreign representatives and Corean officials of note in the Summer Palace. Only a year since, and where is the Queen? What a tragedy or rather a series of tragedies have been enacted during that space of time! I can see with most painful distinctness, the Palace with its decorations and lanterns, the long tables loaded with all sorts of delicacies, His Majesty in his amiability, Her Majesty in her smiles, its Palace maids in their softness, and all the guests in their good humor. That night the moon was glorious. That night Mrs. Waeber wished that their Majesties would no more have trouble. That night the Japanese consul in his drunk fit went right though the pavilion occupied by Her Majesty and her ladies. That night my wife was there. That night―oh! everything was so bright and happy. Only a month later the Queen was no more. Life is a dream; often it is a nightmare.
146
Things seem much cheaper here than in Russia. One R.―2.65 fr. One franc-about 38 Kopecs. Mr. M. once had to pay 18 Rs for a plate of fruit, 12:30 Rs for a bottle of Champagne, 2 Rs for a cigar in one of the restaurants, on the Kamenmy Ostrow.
147
Rained-all the evening. After dinner played two games of halma with the landlady.
149
26th. Wednesday. Cool and sunny.
150
In the afternoon, began my French studies. A very bright evening sun which turned the Place de la Concorde and the Avenue des Champs Elysees into a sort of fairyland.
152
27th. Thursday. Cold, drizzly.
153
Stayed home all day long preparing my French lessons. Homesick. What do I expect from my French studies? What good will they do me? Why do I stay here, lonely and dejected, trying to learn a language which may likely be of no service to me?
154
Miss Schmith, my landlady is an intelligent young woman. She said at the dinner table, "Our ministers change so often. We don't care anything about them. A minister may get in and out of an office in ten days; but Paris goes on all the same."
156
28th. Friday. Cold, cloudy a.m.
157
Those who live in this house must be neither just nor unjust; the sun never shines on them. We only see the sunshine from afar on the high walls of the buildings surrounding us.
158
The knives on our table here are like old people―worn and sharp.
159
Mr. A. Stanford left here for London at 8 p.m. He is a quiet and gentleman. His few words of Christian parting as we exchanged views affected me very much.
161
29th. Saturday. Bright-pleasant.
162
At 9 a.m. left the "pension" to join Cook's excursion party. The carriages left Cook's office at 10:15 a.m. and visited the following places of interest.
163
1. Vendome Column. 142 ft. high. 13ft. diameter. Commemorates the victories of Napoleon I over the Russians and Austrians. The bronze plates cuirassing the column were produced from melting 1,200 guns taken from the Russians and Austrians. In 1871, the Communists threw down the column. 5,000 people were at it.
164
2. The Palace and Museum of the Louvre. The foundation laid under Francis 1. The entire building occupies "an area of 48 acres" on the N. bank of the Seine. a flying visit to the picture galleries, museums etc.―had never seen anything like this before.
165
3. Saint Chapelle. A very pretty Gothic building. The upper chapel has 15 long windows 50 ft. high and 13 ft. wide. The stained glass old and beautiful. On the facade of the principal entrance to the Chapelle, there is a brass relief representation of the last judgment. An angel holds a scale with a Soul in each pan. The devil is represented to pull one of the pans in his favor. "What was so in olden time when people were good," said the guide, "but nowadays the devil needn't pull the scale at all he gets as many souls as he wants."
166
4. Church of St. Sulpice―its organ said to be one of the finest in Paris. "It has 6 rows of keys, 118 stops and 7,000 pipes."
167
5. Gobelins. Here costly tapestries have been produced for centuries. For the government use alone. A marvelous sight to see how the most delicate designs of all shades of the tapestry by means of woolen threads of different hues. At a distance can't distinguish a tapestry from a painting. Only 1 square inch of work a day, so said the guide.
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6. Pantheon―stands on the highest ground in Paris. Foundation laid in 1764. A lovely building. Opposite to Pantheon there is a state law school under the name of Ecole de D'roit. "There," remarked the guide, "they study to be lawyers and lyers."
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7. Palace of the Luxembourg. Erected 1615. A royal residence till the first Revolution. A state prison under the Convention! Now the senate.
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8. Notre Dame, founded 1163. Holds 20,000 persons 300 years in building. Home 6:30 p.m.
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31st. Monday. Bright and pleasant.
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Went to the Independent Chapel but no service. Visited the famous Madeline, with its colonnade of 64 Corinthian columns. The church was full―especially of elderly women―during the morning service. These Catholic services in their magnificent churches mean―nothing to me―what a mummery of childish ritualism they have!
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Spent the afternoon on the Eiffel Tower. This enormous structure, 985 ft. high was finished in 2 years. Strong hydraulic lifts convey visitors to the top. The range of view from the top said to be 50 miles. On the tower there are restaurants, shops, theaters.
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