2
2nd. (28th of 10th Moon). Wednesday. A summer day.
3
Wrote the following letter this morning to be mailed from Djibouti.
5
I waited for your letter to the last hour of my sojourn in Paris, which city I left on the 18 inst. Our S.S. weighed anchor from Marseille at p.m. on the 22nd. Only on the 23rd inst, the post agent handed me your letter. Your words coming to me as a healing balm were such as I expected; tender without being affected, serious without being harsh; instructive without being sermonish. Thanks! cover it―and it shall be a proud day when I shall say "I owe no man a cent. Henceforth shall out of my own means serve the church of whom I dare not so much as to claim the membership.
6
My program in Seoul is not certain. As long as I don't want to work for any mission for pay, I shall have to, for my support, stay in the government service provided they want me.
7
Dr. Hoss and his wife are two of my best friends in the south. Please tell them everything I have told you if necessary or proper.
8
Reached Djibouti about 2 p.m. A glaring sun. The village consists of two parts, French and Arabian. The former use the place as a coaling station.
9
When a steamer enters the port, the deep bronze colored boys come in crowds like a shoal of fishes. Their aquatic feats are amusing if not wonderful. They dive into water like ducks to fetch up a sinking coins which, voyagers throw at them.
10
About 3:30 p.m. a boat under a white canopy put out for the shore from the steamer. There were three distinct races represented in the little craft. Near the helm sat a pretty French girl. By her side was her brother. Opposite him sat his dear little wife and next her was my seat. The boatmen, three in all, were Arabs, as black as coal and as naked as nature except around their loins. As the natives rowed away with oars fan shaped at the end and as they sang "Hay ho, Si-roc-be la" or "Hay hom Mi rok bala" their glistening teeth presented a rather striking but disagreeable contrast to their ebony skin.
11
On the other hand, the two of latest blossoms from the graceful garden of the Parisian humanity―Oh! how lovely they looked. The sister, a typical French woman so far as her features are concerned, had her shapely fingers on the rude helm and I envied it.
12
Between these extremes of colors and cultures there was a Corean whose pitiful nationality had much to provoke the contempt in the French but nothing to move the envy of the Arab. As we went out the beautiful "sister" placed her charming hand in mine and let me help her out. A sweet experience! Yet from Marseille to this day we had never exchanged a word and until the end of their voyage I shall have no occasion to talk to the fair ones.
13
In the French part of the town there is commandant's office, a post office, a hotel de France, several cafes and shops. On the public square there was a market in which Arabs from different parts of the land came to hold a fair. There were donkeys with their front legs bound, but hinder feet free, harmless looking dromedaries now and then quenching their thirst by fetching up their water bags; Arabian women with their children on the back, and with their arms and breasts as naked as if they were going to attend a society ball: the merchandise consisting in bundles of dry sticks and of hay, and in ordinary neck string beeds and of shells―all this primitiveness of the fair recalled to my mind nothing similar if it were not a Corean fair.
14
The native village is a collection of huts gotten up with hay and weeds. The household furniture of chairs and tables and tin cups bespoke of little comfort. The streets very clean compared with those in a Corean town. A woman was seen making meal on an inclined stone with a heavy stone stick. At one corner of the lanes a number of Arabs were playing cards while not far away street cooks exposed their dainties with tin cups and a pot full of something greasy, by no means inviting.
15
On the French side there were sevral black and white policemen that is negroes dressed in white, bare footed and a stick in the hand. They went about doing actual good in keeping an uninitiated traveler from being annoyed by children or traders.
16
As I came off I could not help thinking that these children of deserts live no better than they did thousands of years ago and that, if left alone by European influence, the end of other thousands of years will find them no better off than at present. All same as in Corea. Now in the name of sense is it right that incapable peoples should be let to keep large pieces of teritory like the dog in a manger? When you wax eloquent against the injustice of European aggressions, remember that a people who let natural resources undeveloped like the negroes of Africa have no more right to their land than the nationals - which denudes and disfigures and destroy the natural beauties of their country without utilizing its riches.
19
As I sat on the stern of the ship enjoying the exciting story of Par Aspera, an Englishman came by my side and stretching himself on a lounger, began to talk with one of his neighbors. This disturbed me much but I had to bear it patiently After a while the wnwelcome (to me) guest got up saying. "Well, this lounger is not the most comfortable in the world" He went away to my delight. Yes, I prefer uncomfortable cahirs to boring talkers.
21
7th.(3rd of 11th Moon). Monday. Fair.
22
The beautiful Venus between the two horns of the new moon, as seen on the Turkish flag.
25
1. One of the Catholic missionaries on board takes a deal of interest in me and tells me that he would gladly help me in the explanation of history or of the French geography or of the Catholic religion. Kind hearted man! Peace be with you! I have disgraced one of the noblest sects of Christianity and Heaven forbid that I shall soil another.
26
2. How little all human terms in which God and religion are described! The idea of confining or defining the infinities of God in terms of wax candles in beads, in liturgies etc! To me the Creator of the universe, the Inspirer of godward thoughts,—the Father, the Son, the Spirit—these three term are enough.
27
3. Some gamble, some dance, some talk to ladies,—all have something or other to beguile the tedium of the voyage. Moi! Nothing to divert my mind from myself by no means an edifying subject for a sermon, from my future which looks darker than ever before, from the Corean affairs which hold out no hope! Oh, why this tenacious love of life?
30
Very hot 32°C in the shade. The immense ocean as calm as a sheet of inland lake. An agitated soul sweetly sleeping in the loving arms of a tender wife.
31
It has often said that a great mind is a result of many little minds like a great river is that of many little streams. This may be true of an ordinary great man or of a reiver. But a Napoleon or a Luther is in himself a distinct creation as is the Indian or the Atlantic Ocean.
34
At 2:30 p.m. reached Colombo. The diving coin catchers as at Djibouti-only here the naked boys kneel on the boat and seine by flapping their arms.
35
At 3:30 went ashore. The red streets, the Buddhist priests in yellow robes, the beautifully green trees, the dark inhabitants wearing all sorts of colors. Europeans in white—present a striking sight even to an Asiatic traveler. After taking a glass of lemonade in the Grand Oriental Hotel, went to the great Buddhist temple in a Zinrikisha. The ride was pleasant, the road being lined on both sides with palms, and other tropical trees exceedingly rich in color. The native huts built of brick, one storey, looked so damp and unhealthy.
36
Found the temple a poor affair. The chair, on which Buddha is said to have sat is kept in a tomblike dome whitewashed, inaccessible to the gaze of the curious. The priest showed me several grotesque wooden idols representing Buddha. One of them was 9 yards long. The images are all ugly without exception. The image of a "Lord Buddha" that was to come, was also shown. I could hardly keep myself from the skeptic thought, "How in the world, could they represent in a tangible from the features of a gentleman who has not come yet, but only is to come?"
37
Am sorry that it was too dark to see the temple more carefully.
38
The soft manners and hard "Squeezings" of the people of colombo would have enabled a man to know that he was on the asiatic shore if he were blindfolded. A shopkeeper asked 30 franks for a ring which he actually sold at last for 2 franks.
39
Left Colombo at 11 P.M.
42
A heavy sea―blinding rain. Captain Uriu told me that, according to a telegraphic news he saw at Colombo, an attempt had been made recently in vain to remove His Corean Majesty from the Russian Legations, and that 80 Russian marines had therefore been added to the guard.
44
16th. Wednesday. Singapore.
45
Reached Singapore at 8 a.m. Hard rain all the morning. Took a walk thro the town. The principal streets lined with Chinese stores.―Chinese coolies―Chinese market suppliers. Japanese dollars in use. Left the port at 3 p.m.
47
18th. Friday. Hot. Saigon.
48
As we neared Saigon, the sea assumed the color of pale green. Islands as beautifully wooded as those found all along the tropical coasts. Reached Saigon about 2 p.m.
49
Saigon is a pretty town with fine avenues―some of which might do well even in Paris. The red streets shaded with long lines of green foliage are a pretty sight. The town is full of Chinese―some of the principal business streets being entirely in their hands. Visited the Botanical Garden.
50
After supper with the Japanese friends took walk about the town, then went to a Japanese house to get some "mesi" or rice cooked in Japanese fashion. Enjoyed the "Koko" or the Japanese pickle, very much. After the rice I returned to the boat, while others stayed to enjoy the company of Japanese girls in immoral trade.
52
19th. Saturday. Hot, very hot.
54
A beautiful moon―with Nakayama hired a boat and rowed up and down the river until 10. Oppressively hot on the ship.
55
A Japanese mission with General Kawakami at its head is now at Saigon to examine the best means of a colonial government.
58
Stayed whole night on the deck, tormented by heat, noise, smoke, mosquitoes. The S.S. left Saigon at 6:30 a.m.
61
Had the meanest sea yesterday, all thro up to this morning. I suffered the see―saw movements very much. This ship could not make more than 200 miles in 24 hours. They say it was worse on the Mediterranean. But there I did not feel so bad―perhaps because I was in good health.
63
23rd. Wednesday. Cold.
64
A bright day―a calmer sea.
65
Arrived at Hong Kong about 6:30 p.m.
66
An agreeable surprise!― a letter of Dr. Allen, dated December 6. It is full of consolation. God, whenever I should prove myself false again to thy goodness and to the confidence of Dr. Allen and other good men―may that day never dawn!
67
The night scene of Hong Kong as viewed from the harbor is beautiful beyond description. The mountains back of the city present a dark ground against which gas and electric lights throw a storm of brilliancy.
69
24th. Thursday. A spring day.
70
The climate of Hong Kong this season seems perfect. The evening cool and the morning freshness with the genial warmth of the midday give one the delights of a lovely spring or an early autumn.
71
At 8 a.m. went ashore. The streets nearest the water are mostly occupied by Cantonese. As one goes higher up the city on the hill, the residences of Europeans are met with. The public gardens are beautiful and enable a traveler to form an idea of how European science and art can turn a bare island into a pleasant home.
72
In the truest sense of the word, the European races have learned to subdue nature. Give them a rock and they turn it into a Gibraltar. An unpromising group of hills becomes a Hong Kong in their hands. Turn them loose in the forests and praires of new continents; soon they found empires and republics. Drive them to swamps and low land where the billowy sea holds its sway, there they build a Venice, a Holland or a Petersburg. Well may European be proud.
73
The S.S. left Hong Kong at 3 p.m.
75
27th. Sunday. Shanghai
76
The voyage from Hong Kong to Shanghai proved to be one of the smoothest we have had. The first day, our S.S. actually made 345 miles. All is well that ends well!
77
Reached Woosong at 4 p.m. Two hours later, the steam tug landed us on the Bund of Shanghai. When I got through with looking after my baggages etc, it was nearly 8 when I found myself in the To Wa Yo Ko (the Japanese hotel.)
78
After a hasty supper, hurried to the Trinity Home to see my treasure, my Darling. But my heart sank in me when Miss Hughes informed me that Sieutsung had gone to the Woman's Hospital. Was partly relieved to hear that on the Christmas day, my Darling gave birth to a boy and that she and the little stranger are doing well.
79
Relieved was I? I believe that no father could have received the news of the birth of a son with as much indifference as I did. Nay, even vexed was I. For the little fellow added another difficulty to the problem of the means and ways wherewith my mind has been anxiously occupied of late for the comfortable support of my Darling. Moreover, his coming has necessitated the removal of the precious little "mother" from the Trinity Home thus preventing me from seeing her at once.
80
Then what a responsibility this! I have taken a sweet confiding and loving girl from her happy school life to partake of with me the storms of my so far checkered career. She might have enjoyed a quiet domestic life, had she married a countryman of her own. I have been the instrument of nature to give existence to two mortal beings, whose destiny, under the gracious God, largely depends on me.
81
Oh my God, let mercy modify the justice. Do not visit my sins on the innocent ones of whom I am the unworthy guardian. Grant that I may do my full duty to them as husband and father. Through the darkness which veils the future from me may I feel thy Fatherly hand leading and directing me. I ask not any miraculous disappearance of the storms to which I seem to have been born; but, Oh Christ, only give me the courage to weather them manfully, sheltering my dear ones from fears and dangers!
82
Went to the Mctyeire Home, but the gates shut. Hurried to Dr. Allen. He and family now live in the Bonnell house. The good old man almost embraced me. His wife and daughters and Arthur all extended to me the hands of welcome. The old lady asked me to put up with them, but I politely refused to abuse her hospitality to any such degree.
83
In a quiet chat with the Doctor, he told me of the great success his history on the Chino-Japanese war has met with among the Chinese; of the transfer of Dr. Reid and family to Corea; of the appointment of Mr. Collier to the Corean mission; of the wrong which Mr. Collier had done Mr. Loehr by backbiting him to Bishop Hendrix etc.
84
Returned to my room at about 11.
87
Had a sleepless night―thinking of my Darling.
88
At 7:30 walked to Mctyeire Home. The ladies, except Miss Haygood, who has been confined to bed on account of sickness gave me such a shower of welcome that I, for the moment at least, felt "at home" among friends. Miss Richardson―one of the few to whom I sent my confession―seemed to be most glad to see me and her "God bless you" accompanying her warm grasp thrilled me with pleasure and gratefulness. There were three new ladies, one of whom said that she had seen me when I was at chapel Hill N.C.
89
Thence to the West Gate Hospital. At 9 a.m. I was in the arms of my precious Darling. God be thanked! She is doing well. The baby is all right. Stayed with Darling until 11:30. Spent the whole afternoon with her. What a joy to live with this loving creature.
90
What star was it that shone on me at my birth? Why is it that family union has been a blessing so often denied me? Isn't it enough that I have been separated from parents years and years? Is it not enough that I have been separated from my Darling for months and months? Isn't it enough that, so far as I can see, I shall have to remain separated from parents any my Darling for some time to come yet? Why, in this city, here we are four in all. My Darling and the new baby are in the hospital, Laura, the little girl of two years, God bless her! stays in the Trinity Home, and I in the hotel!
91
Some incidents during the voyage.
92
1. The 2nd class accommodations on a French mailboat are almost as good as those of the 1st class on the C.P. line.
93
2. There was, from Marseille to Singapore a crowd of Hollanders, among them a girl about 17 years old. She tried to be fast but her vulgar manners and loud talking undid whatever her pretty face might have done. She tried to imitate the pretty exclamations of the two sweet French women on board but she failed dismally. She screamed, and that unceasingly whenever she meant to be exceedingly charming. The male members of the crowd made it one of their pastimes to imitate the vomiting sound―right at the table while people were eating. What a howl of indignation they would have set up if a Corean or a Chinese did that. But they were c-i-v-i-l-i-z-e-d and E-u-r-o-p-e-a-n-s!
94
3. There were seven japanese passengers, four in the 1st class and three in the 2nd, colonel Uriu, one of the handsomest Japs I have ever seen, was always pleasant to me. He, by the way, said that one of the chief objects of the late war was to keep back Russia from her eastward progress, but that the result has been quite otherwise. The Japanese were very sensitive to anything that might cast a reflection on their national honor. With an admirable tact they avoided doing or saying anything before Europeans that might call into question the perfect enlightenment of Japan. Yet, these very Japanese rejoiced to see the wide spread of the Japanese prostitutes in all the Asiatic settlements saying that the extension of the Japanese "influence" was a matter of joy, no matter how it was done.
96
29th. Tuesday. Gloomy.
97
After breakfast, went to the Hong Kong Shanghai Bank to exchange some U.S. banknotes into Mexican currency. They offered to give 1.33(M) for1.00(Am) . Then I went to the Yokohama Specie Bank and there I got1.79(M) for every1.00(Am) .
98
Spent the p.m. with my Darling.
100
30th. Wednesday. Chilly-cloudy.
101
Here I am in the best Japanese hotel there is in Shanghai. I pay1.50 per day plus 20￠ for a fire. The charge is high enough for me, but the service is wretched. These Japs try to make up for what they fail by bows, smiles and answers. I ordered at 7:45 this morning to make a fire, but not until nearly 10 was there any sign of it in the stove.
102
On my way to the Hospital met Mr. Min Young Ik walking. He had the Corean dress on with a white hat. He told me that Yi Hak Kiun (李學均) is now in Shanghai on his way to Corea with the corpse of his father, who had died in Singapore.
103
With my Darling the whole afternoon.
104
After supper called on Mr. Loehr. He welcomed me with cheering warmth. Had nice chat with him and his wife. His children behave exceptionally well and they read, at the family prayer, their Bibles with admirable fluency. Mr. L. knows how to manage his family.
105
He told me that Doctors Reid, Anderson and Parker and tried to run him out of the mission by representing him as an incapable worker to Bishop Hendrix; that Dr. Parker, who, now has the A.C.C. in charge, once intended not to accept the position unless Mr. L was out of the school; that both Doctors Parker and Anderson have now discovered the unreasonableness of their prejudice and the usefulness of Mr. L's labor; that Dr. Reid was at the bottom of all this; that Dr. P. has turned out the Old Teacher, a man of 90 years, to earn a precarious living, while his long service to the A.C.C. is worth a much better treatment.
106
Well, I was sorry to hear that such ill feelings and unfair manouveres should have existed among the members of the same Mission. To sin is human.
107
Mr. L. and his wife asked me to come and stay with them during my sojourn in Shanghai. Very kind of them, but I declined.
108
According to Mr. L. the A.C.C. is running down and the absence of the Old Teacher greatly affects the prosperity of the school.
110
31st. (27th of 11th Moon). Thursday. Cloudy.
111
On my way to the Hospital, tried in vain to find the residence of Mr. Min Yong Ik. He might have given me a misleading direction as to his "locus"
112
With my Darling in the afternoon. Received letters from Professor Bonnell of Macon and Dr. Reid. Both of them encourage me to press forward, each in his characteristic way. Dr. R. urges me to enter the Mission work pure and simple.
113
Dined at the McTyeire Home. Miss Haygood is no better. Was happy to see Miss Richardson. She has a pair of lovely eyes, and a thoroughly religious soul. Mr. Burk was there.
114
Spent about two hours by the fireside in the parlor in the pleasant and lively company of Misses Reynod and Yary. Was much amused with the animated discussion between the two ladies concerning the "conspiracy" against Mr. L. Miss R. denies of rather doesn't believe that Dr. Reid had any hand in it, thus throwing the blame on Doctors Anderson and Parker. On the other hand, Miss G. defends Dr. Parket by saying that he was induced to write a letter against Mr. L. by the representations of Dr. Reid, Mr. Hill and Dr. Anderson. Miss G, among other things, said:
115
"I love Mr. L. as a brother. Know he is faithful. But I hope that the last experience may cure him of the fault of complaining. When Dr. Allen was the head of the College, Mr. L. complained that the whole responsibility was on him. When Professor Bonnell had the charge of the school, Mr. L. grumbled that the former was mismanaging the institution. When he took the school in charge he complained that he had too much to do. When Dr. Parker became the president of the A.C.C. Mr. L. tried to hinder him in all his proceedings and plans. However, under Dr. Parker, the school has had a prosperity unknown in its history."
116
By the way, this morning, Dr. Allen advised me to enter the government service when I should return to Corea. "The influence you could use in the interest of missions," said he, "would be far greater when you give it as an outside friend than if you were a preacher who is supposed to advocate the cause of Christianity as matter of profession.
|
