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2nd. (lst of lst Moon, Jong-yoo Year). Tuesday. Bright-cold.
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My Corean dress ready. Following calls.
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1. Mr. Sill, the U.S. Minister. He was red hot with indignation about the wretched turn which affairs have taken in Corea during the past year.
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2. Mr. Yi Yun Yong, the Minister of Agriculture etc.
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3. A few Presbyterian friends－then took tiffin at the Ladies Home.
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4. Dr. P. Jaisohn. His wife a very pretty woman of society airs, her talks showing her deep dislike of Corea and her lack of consideration and high refined delicacy of feelings. An example; when she heard Dr. Jaisohn describe the way in which the King had caused Kim Ok Kiun's body to be butchered, she said in the most careless way, "The king may one day die like that!" Well I don't like such thoughtlessness even in a handsome woman. No wonder Hutchison told me the other night, "There are only three ladies in Seoul whom I would marry tomorrow if I could, namely your wife(who is now in Shanghai) , or Mrs. Allen, or Mrs. Jordan. I wouldn't marry Mrs. Jaisohn"
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Dr. Jaisohn told me what devilment the government has become; how such wretches as Kim Hong Niuk, Yi Yong Ik, Hong Chong Woo, Cho Piong Sik, Yi Miong Sang etc, are using the king to squeeze the people; how the Waebers refuse to be convinced of the villainy of Kim H.N.: how well Mr. Min has behaved since his return from Europe etc. The Doctor advised me not to accept any office even if offered.
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5. Called on Mr. Brown. While many a people, especially Coreans, hate Brown, it is a fact acknowledged by all, friends and foes, that but for his wise management and firm standing, not a cent would have been left in the Treasury. Mr. Brown told me that a careful management would enable the Corean government to pay its debt and carry on its enterprises without borrowing any from anybody, but that no economy has been and will be possible in the use of public funds as long as the King keeps on wasting money as he is doing now. According to Brown, the King is constantly borrowing from all sources.
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6. Had a delightful dinner at Dr. Underwood's, Mr. Min Y. H., Brown, the Jaisohns, the Reids, a presbyterian lady and myself were the guests. For the first time saw what the new fashion calls the progressive dinner party. That is after each course, at the signal of the host, each gentleman gets up and takes the seat next above him, thus giving each man the benefit of the conversation of all the ladies present.
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Hear that the gang of rascals in whose hands the King has put all powers have founded themselves into a "Brother-sister-hood." Their names are, Kim Hong Niuk, (金鴻陸) , Hong Chong Woo, (洪鍾宇) , Cho Piong Sik, (趙秉式) , Yi Miong Sang (李明祥) , Yi Se Chik (李世稙) , Lady Um, (嚴尙宮) , Nam Jong Chul (南廷哲) .
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Mr. Min thinks, the country is hopelessly gone!
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4th. Thursday. Bright-cold.
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Had a call from Stein this morning. He was cordial and frank. Told me that the Waebers had suspected him of having said against their interests, that he had for sometime most wretched time in the legation on account of this strained condition of affairs; that my separation from the embassy and my long stay in Shanghai deepened the suspicion in the minds of the Waebers that I dared not return to Corea, because I had slandered them in Petersburg; and that he had to defend my character with all his force against such accusations.
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Well, I was glad enough to see. Stein, anyway. He detests Kim Hong Niuk.
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6th. Saturday. Bitter cold.
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About 3 p.m. called on Waeber and told him in what a desperate condition the government now is. When I said that the king is surrounded by men who are fast restoring old abuses to the disgust of all and that Kim H.N. is false to the core, Waeber stopped me by saying, in substance, that all is going well, that he has never found anything wrong in his interpreter, that old abuses centuries old can't be eradicated in a day, that except the law department, all the government functions are in good hands, that he does not want to interfere in the least with the actions of the King and that those who accuse the men now in power would do the very same thing if they changed places. As a matter of confidence, he said that Colonel Butchata is constantly complaining against Min Yong Huan, of his incapacity etc.
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Dined at Mr. Appenzeller's. This has been the coldest day this winter. 40 below zero in the U.S. Legation.
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7th. Sunday. Bright-cold.
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Conducted the service for Dr. Scranton, who is now sick. Called on General Greathouse 2:30 p.m. Found him in his bed gown and drawers, drinking "makkuli" in his study.
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He said, "Well, Yun, as you know, I was an optimist even in the darkest period of Corean affairs. But now, I have lost all hopes. The Corean government under His Majesty has had a year of absolute control, and has proved itself incapable of self rule. I would bet anything that the whole concern will be busted up within two years hence, if not sooner."
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When I told the General that I couldn't help sometimes thinking that the Russians seem to let things go as they are in order to show to the world how bad the Corean government is and how incapable it is to manage itself. He exonerated Waeber from such mean tricks not only because he is interested in the welfare of Corea, but also because he has a reputation to save from the charge that Corea has become from bad to worse under his influence.
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The General said: "I have had nearly six conspiracies to examine into during the last year. The fellow who gets up a plot has no other motive than office for his work. Coreans will do anything for the sake of getting office."
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Dined at Greathouse's.
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On my way to Dr. Reid's, called on Mr. Min Y.H. Told him of my ambition to set up an industrial school through the help of American friends.
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His brother, Min Yong Chan, and Min Sang Ho are to accompany him to Europe.
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A poor sleep last night makes me feel quite out of sorts today.
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At 4:30 p.m. happened to meet Mrs. Waeber on her way to the U.S. Legation. She asked me if I were happy. On being told that I had no special reasons to be happy, said she: "Mr. Yun, don't you be discouraged. We are getting along slowly but nicely. I have heard what you said to my husband and he thinks you are a pessimist." "I may be," said "I but things are in a bad fix now. His Majesty is surrounded by some of the most notoriously bad men and I am afraid the good counsels of your husband don't get to the king straight." She answered thus;
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"I know you refer to our interpreter. No wonder you have a low opinion of him, for everybody has been against him. But in ten years Mr. Waeber has had hundreds of proofs for the honesty and faithfulness of Kim Hong Niuk. Do you think such smart persons like the late Queen and my husband could be deceived by him, and that for so long a time? They say he sells positions etc. No indeed! He is poor. Where is his money? When His Majesty came to the Legation, he gave Kim four thousand dollars, but Yi Pom Chin twenty thousand. This gift Kim didn't hide from my husband."
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"No, Mr. Yun, Kim is loyal and honest. When, last year, Yi Wan Yong, Yi Yun Yong, and the rest of them, hid themselves and dared not to show their heads, who was it that worked night and day to the risk of his life for the good of the King? It was Kim Hong Niuk. People hate him because he is near to the King. They would hate you or anybody else under similar circumstances."
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"You say, the men surrounding the king are bad. True, Yi Chai Soon, the Minister of the Household Department, is doing all sorts of devilment. Eunuchs and palace women are sacking the king. The king is weak. But where will you find better men in Corea? There are seventy or more missionaries, over several hundreds of native Christians. Yet, which one of the latter will not lie and cheat and steal when he gets an opportunity? The trouble with you Coreans is that all talk politics but do nothing. The head source of Corea's misfortune is in Tai Won Kun. Only four among foreigners have been at work like niggers to introduce reforme, viz. my husband, General Greathouse, Mr. Brown and Dr. Jaisohn. Min Yong Huan talks one thing to one person and another to another."
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"Don't lose courage. Put on a pair of spectacles that may give you a fairer view of things. Tell us everything when you think it necessary. We are always glad to hear how things run."
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The above is a faint reproduction of the eloquence of Mrs. Waeber. She talks with such conviction and force and fluency that she commands ones hearing inspite of himself. She is so positive and thinks so highly of her husband and of herself that she can't admit even the possibility of mistake on their part. The favorite method of her argument is the there-goes-another-thief system. She trys to excuse the dishonesty of Kim H.N. by reminding you of the general depravity of Coreans.
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There seems to be fatality in the business. The king in the hands of Kim and his wretched colleagues. Waeber who alone has the power to deliver the poor king from the damning influence of the villains is as much under it. In the meantime everything goes wrong. No justice, no economy, no hope.
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Enough I have said what I thought my duty to say to the Waebers. From this on I shall hold my peace and turn my back to politics, so called. Mrs. Waeber is right beyond dispute that Corea would go better in everybody worked more and talked less－in politics.
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Returned to my room at 9 p.m. Yi Kun Ho called on me. His brother, who was someway or other implicated in the late conspiracy to compel the king to return to his own house, had been sentenced to 10 years' exile, to the Quellepart Island.
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Made things ready for our trip (Dr. Reid and I) to Songdo. Bed nearly midnight. Weary.
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9th. Tuesday. Bright-bitter cold.
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The stable man who promised us to furnish horses before daylight this morning didn't bring them until nearly 8. It was 8:10 when we left home. The bitterness of the northwest wind has been, all through the day, an occasion of much suffering on my part. Dr. Reid did better, because of his warmer provision against the weather.
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Lunch at Ko Yang. About a dozen of inquirers met us in an inn. A few of them showed a deal of interest.
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Reached Pachoo about 5 p.m. Fortunate in finding a decent room for the night.
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10th. Wednesday. Bright-bitter cold.
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As we advanced further north the cold became more piercing. Lunch at Changtan. At 3:30 arrived at Songdo. The two days ride (or rather walk) and the biting cold did me up so that I could hardly lift my legs. Went straight to my uncle's. He has a very nice house and gave Dr. Reid and me a welcome that was indeed welcome to us.
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Was glad to see the surprise and delight of Dr. Reid in being introduced into a large room carpeted and a big mirror. I felt proud of my uncle, who is certainly a gentleman, every inch of him.
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Happy to see my aunt, the sister of my mother, well. Her daughter, a pretty young woman, is with her. By the way, the latter was married at 14! Everybody was as kind to me as possible.
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After supper, I told my uncle the object of our trip, viz, the inspection of the town of Songdo for the establishment of a mission and of an agricultural school. He warmly approved of the plans and promised his cordial help in securing property etc.
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11th. Thursday. Bright-milder.
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After breakfast, my uncle led Dr. R and me to see some of the properties near his house.
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Went up to the spot where once stood the palace of the preceeding dynasty. All that is left of the buildings is the stone foundations. When I remarked that it is a pity that the present dynasty hasn't preserved the palaces of the former kingdom, my uncle said most properly. "He who can not keep up his own palaces,－how can he take care of those of somebody elses?"
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My uncle tells me that Yi Yong Ik, who came near provoking an insurrection some time ago in Songdo by his exactions, and who had to flee for his vile life, is determined to ruin as many people as possible as a matter of revenge.
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12th. Friday. Lovely-mild.
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Left my uncle's home at 8 a.m. The southward journey and the mild weather made the day's work not unpleasant. Put up for the night at Pachoo.
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13th. Saturday. Lovely, mild.
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Left Pachoo at 6:30 a.m. Arrived at Seoul 4 p.m. thoroughly worn out.
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18th. Thursday. Another lovely day.
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Moved to the "San Jung (山亭) " in the Jundong house. Every thing in and about the rooms reminds me of my precious Darling. Found a pair of her old shoes in the trunk room, and I couldn't help kissing them! I can not feel happy without her. God grant that we may soon be reunited!
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1. The other day, Mr. Junkin offered to sell his property outside of the Little West Gate for ＄450.00 in cash or for ＄500 in three installments spreading over three years. I have decided to buy the place on the latter condition.
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2. Mrs. Waeber's idea of patriotism is devotion to the king. Happy must be the nation in which one's personal fidelity to the sovereign coincides with his duties to the welfare of the country.
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3. Not a day passes in which I have not numbers of people asking me to get them offices. These ablebodied men ever busy without doing anything, are the bane of the Corean society. An officialdom full of squeezers, a social organism full of spongers, a population full of superstition here is the picture of Corea.
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4. The life of a Corean woman is a life of perpetual drudgery. She is the slave of many masters－her husband, her father and mother-in-law, her children. Her time being entirely occupied by the overwhelming duties of the Corean housekeeping, she finds no time for mental cultivation or for esthetic enjoyment. Food and raiment consist the entire program of her life. For her, flowers blush unappreciated; for her, birds sing unnoticed; for her, paintings are meaningless colors.
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Corea is the land where children have no toys; women, no flowers; men, no independence.
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5. When I was fifteen years old, they charged from 15 to 20 cash for a good Corean meal in an inn. Now a respectful traveller has to pay from 300 to 600 cash for a meal. Fifteen years ago a chair coolie got from 20 to 25 cash; now he charges from 400 to 450 cash per 10 li.
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6. During the last few weeks so called scholars (儒學) and officials (縉神) have been memorializing to the Throne begging His Majesty to return to his palace. The scholars present an ungainly sight as they squat on coarse straw mats spread on the ground in front of the German Legation and of the entrance to the Legation Street. Waeber thinks that these demonstrations rather scare the king more, thus lessening his desire to return to the palace.
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20th. Saturday. Beautiful. A lovely day.
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His Majesty, at 2 p.m., returned to the new palace in Chungdong. Am glad he has. However, I expect no inprovement in the running of the government. Change of place doesn't mean change of nature.
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Received a refreshing letter from my precious Darling.
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Sim Mok Soo, who contracted for rebuilding, with the old materials, a 14 kan house on the site I have purchased of Mr. Junkin, began the work this morning. The desolate looks of the old house and the lazy and clumsy movement of the coolies chilled my ardent hope for a neat little home.
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1. Nothing exasperates me more than the stupid, impudent, and snail-like movements of a Corean coolie or workman in his abominably big pair of trousers and with his indispensable long pipe. The only way to make him work is physical force. He has been for so many centuries used to nothing but brutal force that arguments or kindness seem lost on him.
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2. A number of Chinese workmen are at work in building the Independence Arch. What a volume of historical vicissitudes this simple fact represents!
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3. The tide of conservative reaction is steadily rising. Long sleeved "to-po's" are met with now and then on the street. Umbrellas, even, have fallen into disfavor. The system or the custom of memorializing to the throne has been revived and a crowd of vile "Sun bis," or Confucian scholars, does a dirty business in blackmailing people and in clamoring for restoring old abuses and nonsenses.
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4. The police and the soldiery show sings of old carelessness and uselessness.
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24th. Wednesday. Beautiful.
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Received a letter from Dr. Candler informing me that he had paid, from the money I had in his charge, my Vanderbilt debt of ＄240.19(U.S.) . Felt very much relived to be freed from this burden.
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Complaints are heard from the Army officers that the Russian drill masters beat and kick the Corean soldiers under their instruction. Reported the same to Mr. Waeber, but he denies it flatly and says that the Corean army has never been in a better state of organization and discipline.
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